Peeping through the plane window
as it cruised thirty four thousand feet above the sea level at five hundred and eighty kilometers per hour, I couldn't spot
a single piece vegetation. All looked parched dry, brown and mountainous.
That was Nevada desert and the plane was about to commence a descent
into Las Vegas also known as "Sin City". As the Airbus A319-321 approached
this famous recreation and entertainment city, the view changed from
one of desolation to life, magnificence and vigour. Excitement and
anxiety was clearly visible in every passenger's face as everyone
looked forward to have a taste of what Vegas had to offer. Las Vegas,
a city located in Nevada state in the United States of America dates
its origin back to the 1800s when westward bound caravans
were lured to the area by its verdant meadows and warm springs. The
city grew from a rail hub and supply center into a vibrant and and dynamic
recreation destination.
It's common knowledge though that it is gambling that put the city on the map. Recreation seekers, whether gamblers
or seekers of other pleasures are the cargo that was delivered at McCarran International
Airport that hot Friday afternoon at precisely quarter to five. As a
message was relayed by the pilot that the temperature outside was one
hundred and seven degrees Fahrenheit, I couldn't immediately figure
out how hot that was. After subtracting thirty from one hundred and
seven and dividing by two I got the degrees centigrade equivalent and
suddenly realized, I was in for a hot and soaring evening.
What massage is to Bangkok and Samba to
Rio De Janeiro, is gambling to Las Vegas. Walking though
the airport hallway, one immediately notices the large number of slot
machines along the way. With flashing lights and christened with such
interesting names like wheel of fortune, Cleopatra and jackpot jewels,
the temptation and pressure to try a turn with Lady Luck was immense.
McCarran International Airport
is very well planned and designed. Immediately, I was convinced that I was at a destination
that took its tourism seriously. As I stepped out of the air-conditioned
airport, I was suddenly hit by a blast of such hot air that I felt like I had
entered an oven. Walking to the pick-up zone, I spotted taxis
parked in cleared marked bays queuing for passengers. As passengers
joined the queue, a taxi controlling officer would signal you, directing you to a particular bay. Depending on whether you were one passenger or part of a larger group,
you would be directed to the appropriate bay. For example, a group of five passengers traveling together would need a bigger car.
I was
directed to bay one, where I was met by a friendly Ethiopian taxi driver.
We struck a chord immediately and got chatting about Kenyans and Ethiopians
and life in the Diaspora. As he let me know how the taxi industry
in Las Vegas was filled with many Ethiopians, I wondered whether our
brothers from the horn of Africa had an extraordinary talent for
taxi driving or was it sheer entrepreneurship collaring a sector of the economy.
Stepping into my hotel, I was
amazed by the number of gambling machines lined up in the foyer and the lounge . I
tried to count them but couldn't finish. An ATM that could
dispense upto one thousand dollars at a go was clearly visible next
to the lounge and the idea was to have you withdraw and gamble, gamble and withdraw some more.
As I waited to check in, I tried to make out an impression of Vegas
and picked up two themes: gambling and consumerism. Besides the
gambling machines, the other omnipresence was the advertising extremism.
If you thought that Nairobi was overcrowded with billboards,
then you need to see Vegas. There's a common rule here that you
ain't in the right place, if you are not spending on something, from
shows to buffets and other events, and don't the entrepreneurs ensure that message is passed about!
I checked in, and wasted little time before getting out and checking out the "sin city". I still hadn't
understood what gave this famous city its name but walking a few
metres along the famous Las Vegas Boulevard also, The Strip, my question was quickly and resolutely answered. Sex is big business here and although prostitution is
illegal, the traders don't hide their merchandise, sales are out in the open
and the advertising is aggressive. Lining up part of the Strip were their agents
bracing with wares advertising adult services. I imagined Sodom
and Gomorrah before the roasting, must have looked something liek this in its chroniclers eye.
Suffice it to
say though that even with all its sin, Vegas has a lot to
offer as a tourism destination and Kenya can borrow a lot from its example. The city's
recreational facilities are built around themes, from the exoticism of Paris to the history of Pharaohs and the fantasy of Treasure Island to the ostentation of Ceasar's Palace. As I strolled back to my hotel
after a late night walk, it was clear that the day seemed to be only just beginning for the Vegasians
and their guests. More people were streaming to the streets. In Nairobi
life begins at 5am, in Vegas midnight seems to be the cockerel
hour.
Over the next few days, I decided
to venture further into the great city and get a deeper glimpse of
what it had to offer. I quickly realised that one week would not be enough to
exhaust everything that was on offer here. Whilst the inner city offers
mostly buffets, gambling joints and recreation centers, in the outskirts
there was much more to visit, from the famous Hoover Dam to the astronomical Great
Canyon. As I tasted some Mexican delicacies in a Mexican pub christened
Diablo one late evening, the waiter reminded me that Vegas is a twenty
four hour city and that for most life actually begun at midnight.
True to his word, the music got louder
and the patronage steadily increased as the midnight hour approached, with your writer sat alone in a table corner sipping his drinks. By a quarter
to time, the excitement was reaching a crescendo and a mood of ecstasy
and heady bliss was catching on, this the carefree attitude you only get at holiday resorts. Patrons got increasingly excited
and noisy, while others pleaded for the music to be turned up. Interestingly, and as an indicator of the age profile of the guests, the speakers throbbed and hummed with the danciest eighties beats. These worked like magic and soon everyone was getting down in a boogie craze.
Leaving Diablo, I headed to
a New York themed recreation center that had a memorial for the
emergency personnel who died in the 911 terrorist attacks. Going through
the names of the firemen who lost their lives, I was struck by the name
Uhuru Gonga, a reminder that wherever you go, you are bound to
meet something that reminds you of Kenya.
Back to my room at almost
two in the morning, it was time to catch up with the local news. Flipping through
the news, I concluded that the US suffers from a skewed justice system,
escalating crime, a broken medical system and racial tensions between
the White, Hispanic and Black parts of its population stand out much more clearly from the inside than the outside. I clearly understood Barack Obama's popularity. To most Americans, Obama is the solution
to bridging the gap between the different races and he stands to unite the country than it's ever been before.
In my time here, I also observed several issues that the Kenyan tourism industry has failed to address and which if addressed would
take the industry to a new level. One, visitors visiting a tourist destination
need to be well informed of the destination and what it has to offer.
To achieve that function, you need information kiosks that are clearly
visible and manned. Secondly, having a radio station and a TV station
that specifically seek to disseminate news on events taking place and promotions
and offers available is imperative. Much less expensive, an active and regularly
updated website is a plus. For that case, the site name should be linked
to the destination itself. Hence I would expect the tourism body to
have something like nairobi.com, mombasa.com and kisumu.com.
Lastly,
to sustain order and discipline in any place, the existing bylaws,
be they driving or littering, need to be enforced by extremely punitive
measures that will make an offender think twice before breaking them.
For that case, in Vegas, you have to cross the roads at only marked
places and fines apply if you go crossing at the wrong places. Littering,
jaywalking and drunken driving attract extremely hefty fines .
Les Vegas is not a place you
want to stay in too long, not if you care enough about your wallet. After a few days, it was time
to bid kwaheri to Las Vegas. As I stared at the magnificence and beauty
of this city from the air, I was convinced that Las Vegas is indeed
a miracle in the middle of a desert.
I thought a lot about this piece as I traveled cross country again, this time in the night to avoid seeing all the burnt down neighbourhoods- homes, shops, hospitals-lives lived out of tents...
I thought about what a strange creature the solitary traveler is...
Travel safe.
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Great piece James! written by pndiangui , July 09, 2008
Great piece; When looked at an eye of tourism industry growth for Kenya to emulate then there are a couple of things we can borrow. And especially from the Vision 2030 where there is a proposition to create a coule of resort cities. For instance Isiolo, Garissa , Lodwar are cities where resort tourism can thrive and especially for domestic tourists wanting to escapethe monotony of the coast. Please feed us with some photos or some videos in your next piece. Otherwise great work on Nevada and its child Las Vegas.
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Who is funding Kenya Imagine written by Mkenya moja , July 10, 2008
A collegue told me about this blog and out of curiosity am wondering who is funding it to be in a position to employ a globe trotting travel writer. Or is it the diaspora money in the works???
I thought about what a strange creature the solitary traveler is...
Travel safe.