As I embarked
on my nine hour flight from Melbourne to Bangkok, I kept visualizing Bangkok, the Bangkok from popular culture and the mass media.
It's not entirely unusual to draw early conclusions based on what one has heard
of a city before travelling there.
Hence, in my mind, the words that
kept on cropping my mind were: massage, nice beaches, friendly people
and shopping. Our plane touched down at precisely 5:40am on a Sunday
morning, right on schedule.
As I strolled towards the immigration counters,
I could not help but notice the magnificence, appeal and beauty of the
airport. As a first time visitor to any country, the first impression
of the airport and road infrastructure mean a lot to one's perception
and expectations of the country. Immediately you step into Bangkok airport,
you are struck by this feeling of a country that is in motion and progressing.
The official name of this Bangkok airport is Suvarnabhumi Airport. The
airport stands sixth in the top ten most on-time airports according
to ForbesTraveller, and boasts of the world's tallest control tower.
A good airport should be airy, spacy and have good signage. True to
it, Bangkok airport meets those standards and I didn't need to ask
for directions to the counters and neither did I have to maneuver my
way past planes and baggage puller cars. The entry point to an airport
for embarking passengers should be an air bridge and not past run ways,
as it's the norm at JKIA for some flights.
Within a few
minutes I was queuing to get my passport stamped. Traveling on an African
passport has its pros and cons. While in some countries, you could be
picked up as a potential drug mule, in the case of Bangkok, I was quickly
reminded by the immigration officer, that I come from one of the countries
whose citizens require strict health scrutiny. Being used to such treatments,
I didn't object at all and quickly made my way to the health control
counter. I was met by a mean looking fellow who without ushering a word,
passed on a questionnaire to me asking questions like, if I had vomited
or had a diarhoea over the last few days. I also had to indicate if
I had a fever or had shown symptoms that could indicate I was developing
one. Mind you, I've not lived in Kenya for the last five or so years,
if living in Kenya has anything to do with being a health hazard. It
didn't take long before the mean looking fellow decided that am
fit to gain entry and after stamping my arrival card, I was ushered
back to the immigration desk. Am not demonizing a Kenyan passport at
all as I've found it quite handy numerous times. While traveling to
most African countries, I felt better treated by immigration officers
on the basis of holding a Kenyan passport. I will never forget an experience
at Lusaka airport where the immigration officer quickly engaged me in
a very friendly conversation in Swahili. I had a similar experience
in Addis Ababa where the immigration officer told me that Kenyatta and
Haile Se laise were extremely good friends and they love to see Kenyans
visiting their country. Similarly, Ghanaians are very friendly as well
as is Malawian, Mozambican and Ugandan immigration officials.
After passing
the immigration desk, the next thing I expected was a thorough and extensive
buggage search by customs just to be double sure am not carrying any
drugs. Luckily, I was let ago and gave a sigh of relief. It's quite
unfortunate that the activities of some of our brothers and sisters
from an country that I wouldn't want to name have given Africans a
bad name, even in Thailand and hence the reason for this kind of stereotyping.
Typical of
a developing country's airport, my first encounter was with taxi drivers
offering me their services. I was rather impressed that upon saying
no, I wasn't hassled further and the drivers would simply say thank
you and walk away. As I mentioned earlier, the second impression maker
of a country doing well is the road infrastructure. I couldn't help
but notice the impressive and well developed road network in Bangkok;
interchanges, working traffic lights, three to four lane highways, clearly
marked lanes and good road signage. As I stared at all this infrastructure,
my mind shifted to my motherland and imagined how nice it would be,
if upon leaving JKIA, I was met by a smooth non-potholed four lane highway
with a four way interchange for traffic going to Athi River, City Centre,
Eastlands and Embakasi. Of greater shock to me was when I came
across this metropolitan rail network just next to the hotel I was staying
in. For once I thought I was in London subway when I saw this electric
trains cruising by. Without wasting a minute, I decided to check out
the nearest rail station. The station I visited came out as orderly,
neat and organized. Reminiscent of a first world railway station, there
was signage indicating arrival and departure times and destinations.
My mind strolled back to my motherland and started envisioning this
Nairobi subway that connects city centre with Buru, Umoja, Ziwani,
Zimmerman, Westlands, Kawangware and South C every fifteen minutes.
I imagined this subway with clean, well labeled trains that are devoid
of preachers, hawkers, beggars and idlers. My mind raced with the thought
of an electric speed train connecting JKIA with Masai Mara that would
see tourists reaching the famous game reserve within fourty five minutes
or less. Aha! What about a tram network that services Ngara, Ngong road,
Langata, Kilimani and Kikomba? My creations were endless but couldn't
help praying that in generations to come, Nairobi would reach such a
stage.. For a country like Thailand that has no natural resources, I
was extremely impressed by what they've managed to do, re: rail mass
commuter.
Back to my
hotel, I decided to catch up with what every Kenyan would regard as
his favourite pet subject; politics aka siasa. The local daily never
failed to give me the latest updates. Apparently Thailand even with
all it's advancements, order and prosperity is not short of political
machinations, gimmicks and upheavals that seem to be having their peaks
and troughs. Take for instance, it was brought to my attention that
on 19th September 2006, a military juntaoverthrew
the elected government and abrogated
the constitution, dissolved Parliament and the Constitutional Court,
detained and later removed several members of the government and declared
martial law. If that happened in Kenya, believe me we would be branded
a failed state! Back to politics, compared to Kenya, what the
Thais have decided to do differently from us is that as the politicians
and their supporters propagate divisive politics and cheap talking,
the entrepreneurs seem more busy making their kill and are least bothered
with political on goings. The only economic pillar that witnessed a
direct correlation with political upheavals was the Thai Stock Exchange
which routinely experiences gains and losses depending on which side
of the bed the politicians wake up. Hence though there was a week long
demo near one of the city's historic bridges calling for the prime
minister to step down, that didn't stop people from going to work,
neither did shops close down in fear of looting. It seemed clear to
me that Thais are well aware of where their bread is buttered and will
never allow politics to get into the way of their economy. As I ushered
my way to entertainment spots and community meeting places, I can't
recall ever coming across an establishment with a TV station broadcasting
a political event or the prime minister giving a speech for that matter.
Unfortunately or fortunately, I always use Kenya as my yardstick and
rewinding my visits to numerous Nairobi joints, political coverage is
a major news item. Why can't we live politics to the politicians and
just move on with life? I keep on asking myself.
Bangkok has
some of the most entrepreneurial people I've ever come across. The
four most aggressive entrepreneurs I came across were: tuk tuk drivers,
tailors, massage owners and retail shop owners. Just as an example,
in Bangkok, you can make an order for a suit which gets delivered to
you within seven hours less. As for the retail shop owners, in some
outlets, they operate until midnight. Bangkok is a sin city of some
kind and anybody visiting there has to be wary of the massage parlours
as they could be brothels in disguise. The other side of Bangkok that
I came across is hospitality and friendliness that is simply out of
this world. From the plane to the hotel, I kept on receiving this greeting,
that can almost make one feel like a god. It's a strange greeting
whereby whoever is greeting you folders her both hands as if in prayer,
stares at you straight in the eyes and slowly nods her head.
On the other
hand, it was quite notable that the Thai government was committed to
ensuring visitors felt safe and welcome in Bangkok. To support this
notion, I came across numerous tourist police patrol cars that seemed
quite busy in ensuring tourists are safe. On the downside, the spoken
English of Thais is pathetic and be sure your taxi driver knows what
you are talking about before you agree for him to drive off. In one
of the evenings, I ended up in the wrong hotel after my driver misunderstood
my instructions. If you ever decide to visit Bangkok, also be wary of
greedy shopkeepers and taxi drivers keen on charging exorbitant prices.
In one instance I bargained for some items from approximately thirty
dollars down to fifteen dollars. Thinking I had a deal of the lifetime,
I walked to another joint only to find exactly the same items going
for five dollars each. Be warned as well, Bangkok shops are rampant
with fake goods, from Rolex watches to designer clothes. On the top,
they look original and genuine but deep inside, they are nothing but
useless copycats. For a Rolex watch that I bought, it didn't take
long before it stopped functioning and little did I know that cheap
can sometimes be very expensive.
My going out
of Bangkok was as impressive as my coming in. Walking past the departure
hall, I got struck once again by a feeling and look of order and good
planning. The immigration officials were equally friendly and were bothered
to know how my stay in Bangkok was. As I jetted out of this great country,
the question that lingered my mind was what it shall take for Kenya
to join the Asia Tigers league?.