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Changing Kisumu: The Asian exodus PDF Print E-mail
Written by Dipesh Pabari   
Monday, 06 October 2008

As we descended into Kisumu last month, I tried to imagine what it was like during the post-election violence. Images from the Kenya Burning exhibition of coffins, streets on fire and police beating up their brothers and sisters ran across my mind but in truth, no matter how hard I tried, it was impossible to imagine my hometown as the bloodbath hanging on the walls at the Go Down. Kisumu was a lot of things but it was certainly not a war torn city.

I had been in touch with my folks regularly and other friends from Kisumu and all in all, I had the impression that most people had moved on since the election eruptions. The airplane was full as were the other four flights that descend on Kisumu daily from Nairobi. As we waited for our luggage in the same old trolley they had been using since I took my first flight over ten years ago, I looked around at the sophisticated Kenyans around with the occasional expatriate who had come to save our souls, only one thing was different: there were hardly any South Asians... 

In mid-January several Kenyan dailies reported that South East Asians were fleeing the country. AfricanPress reported:

A survey carried by this writer revealed that a good number of business people as well as Dukawallas of Indian and Pakistan origins have left the town quietly or are in the process of leaving Kenyan's third largest City after Nairobi and Mombasa.

Rumours and speculations making the round here, is that some of the Asia traders who are arguably the ones who controls the economy of the city had sneaked out of town quietly before  the controversial December 27,2007 polls in anticipation of troubles in advance.

 

A scene like this would be fairly easy to imagine as the images of hordes of South Asians jumping on the trains in Uganda after Idi Amin gave them 24 hours to pack their bags is still vivid in the minds of many Kenyans. The writer was certainly trying to conjure up the same sort of scenario especially with the sensationalistic title of this piece. Cheap journalism pays well where there is a bit of smoke.

People did leave and shops did get looted and burnt. South Asian Kenyans have always been stereotyped for sleeping with one bag packed and an open ticket to the UK. But let's put a little perspective here since this is not for gutter trash consumption. Kisumu is a small town no matter what our pathetic government likes to call it. The main business hub is on three connected streets. There is probably a ratio of 1 - 10000 South Asians Kenyans in Kisumu and yes, South Asians do dominate the business scene, but all this is to say that with numbers like these in a place as small as Kisumu, things are bound to look a lot worse than they are. Throw the media in the mix and you have full scale ethnic cleansing.

I spoke to several second generation businessmen while in Kisumu (all who do not wish to be named here). Enough has been written about the 28th of December and I have no more recreative ways of retelling the horror that any outburst of violence is.

I gathered that no one amongst the people I spoke to could have foreseen what followed. There was tension as there would be at such a critical moment in the country. A handful of South Asians had left Kisumu prior to the elections as they always do fearing that something may happen. And it did. "There is no question about it. It was pre-planned," said one of my father's friends, "and the police were told not to interfere. But we had no idea. I was just about to leave for work when your father called me to warn me not to go into town." 

In that same report by AfricaPress:

 

Immediately after president Kibaki was declared the winner the ODM youths swarmed into action, raided the Central Business District (CDB) and all  Kisumu  streets apparently venting their anger on every shop, eating houses, hotels, hardware shops, cell phone dealers, electronic chops, computer dealers, motor vehicles spare parts shops and on every   business enterprises they could lay their hands. The looters also set some of the business premises ablaze after empting their cargos.

 

I remember the conversations that I had continuously with my folks for several weeks after this day as they stayed put in their lake shore house in Milimani: To leave or not to leave, that was the question. Inevitably, our fears were magnified as a resort owned by our close friends had been razed completely. She was British and he was Kikuyu.  "Indians were not the target. None of this was directed at them. They just happened to be in the way," said someone else I spoke to elsewhere.  

Sources have confirmed that the fleeing members of Indian and Pakistan Asian traders took refuge with their kings in the neighboring countries like Tanzania and Uganda, some of them were contemplating relocating their business in the near by  town of  Musoma and Mwanza in Tanzania, while others may be forced to  seek for green pasture in the Ugandan capital, Kampala  and its sister town Jinja.

According to a group of businessmen in their mid-fifties, only seven families left as a direct consequence of the outburst of violence. Many people did leave temporarily but have since returned while others were already contemplating emigrating elsewhere and the elections were just a catalyst for the inevitable.

"I planned to leave even before this happened. I did not want to split the family, with the children studying in one country and the parents living in another. We planned to go see Australia on the day the post-election crisis broke out, but instead we ended up just leaving," said one businessman in his mid-forties.

People with children often give education as the reason to move on. If they can afford it, Australia, Canada or the UK are the new destinations.

"Some lost their businesses completely so most people are now scared to live in Kisumu. Others want to protect their families and many had rights to other countries." 

Younger South East Asians, those below thirty-five, who had an opportunity to study abroad never came back. Of the twenty or so peers that I grew up with from within the South Asian community, I can only think of two who stayed on in Kisumu.

"A couple of guys your age left the very next day. But they were looking for a reason to leave for a long time," said another of my father's friends. "Young people have been moving for a long time. You moved. There is nothing here for young people. But our generation have no intention to leave. Where would we go? Even though we are second class citizens, I would rather stay put. There's no place like Kenya." 

This is indeed a sentiment shared by many South Asians. Kenya is home but it is not their country. Most of us have had to deal with issues of belonging throughout our lives but this is true of any minority population anywhere in the world. For Kenya, issues surrounding identity are particularly critical at this point in history. Are we a nation of diverse cultures or are we a country populated by 43 tribes? However, in the context of demographics of South Asians, it is no secret that over the past fifteen years there has been not only been a continuous wave of emigration but also immigration.

A new wave of immigrants has slowly been arriving mostly from India whom like our forefathers came to East Africa in search of better opportunities. I believe there are a lot of sociological and anthropological questions that need to be answered surrounding what makes up today's Kenyan South Asian and such sensational journalism as quoted above needs to be re-examined in a more lucid context to investigate identities and the ontology of the South Asian immigrant.  


Dipesh Pabari
About the author:
Dipesh Pabari is a Kenyan writer and freelance education and communications consultant. He sits on the Editorial Board for Awaaz Magazine (a journal for South Asians in diaspora) and Wajibu (a journal of ethical and social concern). 
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written by wuod aketch , October 06, 2008
The only problem with Asians is their lack of integration. As nature loathes vacuum, the places these people left behind will finally be filled. Maybe by the Chinese whom I hear are building the new Kisumu inernational airport. The idea of the Wahindi being replaced by the Chinese sends cold chills all over my body. Ask the natives of Grenada whose leaders sold their UN voting rights to the Chinese and welcomed them to come constructing structures on their Island. The first thing the Chinese will tell you is to break diplomatic relations with Taiwan. Kenya was ordered to do the same!!

Grenada picks China over Taiwan http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wor...190295.stm
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written by Stephen Wanyama , October 07, 2008
Aketch,
One would hope that by now, that abhorrent vaccum could be filled by the locals. The future peace of this country depends on locals seizing control of the economic opportunities before them, not ceding them to Kisiis, Kikuyus, Indians or Chinese who can later be scapegoated as the devils sucking everything away from the locals.

Of course non-locals should and must invest, but locals ought to be at the forefront of such efforts.
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written by dipesh , October 07, 2008
Stephen, such comments as yours can be very dangerous as they can be interpreted as advocating for tribalism. We must stop looking at Kenya in ethnic terms - we are a nation.
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written by Stephen Wanyama , October 07, 2008
Dipesh,
Not at all. You misread my comment, it is made in defense of such ethnic minorities as Kenyan Asians. I am no tribalist, the tribalist is he who believes certain sectors of the economy are best served by certain ethnicities. This has been the thinking and practice in large parts of the world.

The development of the one nation ideal is made much more difficult by ceding parts of the economy or other public life to the dominance of specific ethnic groups, again e.g. Kikuyu, Kisii or Asians. It is such dominance that allows a charismatic leader or movement (like Amin, Raila, etc) to come in and point to a specific group as the adui.

With specific regard to Kisumu, one must hope that more of the locals take on business. There really is nothing standing in their way.
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written by Stephen Wanyama , October 07, 2008
Ummmm, please follow the link above, to a discussion we had on AMy CHua's World on Fire.
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written by dipesh , October 07, 2008
My sincere aplogies for misinterpreting your comment Stephen. Will follow through on "World on Fire". Thanks.
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written by jaya wardene , October 08, 2008
A great piece Dipesh! Best I have read on this issue.

The tragedy that took place in Kisumu was only one indicator of the raging forces rumbling beneath the surface of our erstwhile "peaceful country". There are many people who refuse to accept that fundamental shifts are required if we are ever to bring back our country to that former Eden.

Kenya works best as a multi-cultural and multi-ethnic society. We will only retain our best talents and attract an inward flow of expertise in that setting. The great God gave us a beautiful country with a perfect climate and wonderful natural resources. Why is it beyond us to learn to share it together?

Life has its cruel ironies. I imagine that the same rabble who claimed that Kenyan Asians were dominating the economy completely shutting out sisi watu wadogo are the same ones shouting loudest about the exodus
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Life has its cruel ironies.
written by Sukuma , October 09, 2008
Thanks for your comments Jaya and everyone else. This article has been republished from a magazine called Awaaz (www.awaazmagazine.com). We have been slugging away for five years with virtually no financial support to try and bring out the fact that South Asians are part and parcel of this country. Interestingly enough, our own South Asians are the hardest people to convince...
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